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Discusion on Arrows/Length
Choosing Your Arrow Length
Many shooters believe that proper arrow length should always be equal to or should exceed the bow's draw length.
So if we rely on this conventional wisdom, a 30" draw bow would always shoot a 30+" arrow. Right? Well......not
necessarily!!! Times have changed, and the traditional thinking may or may not apply to your particular bow rig. In
many instances, the proper arrow length for your bow may be considerably less than the measured draw length of
the bow.
RISER TYPE:
There are several factors to consider here. So we'll start with the big one - riser type (the riser is the "handle"
portion of the bow). Some years ago, as traditional magnesium molded risers gave way to the production of CNC
machined aluminum, we were blessed by the welcome innovation of the center-shot cutaway riser (Figure A). The
center-shot cutaway riser has a much wider arrow shelf, and the center section of the riser is shifted well to the
side. This allows the true center-shot of the bow (where your arrow rest should line up left and right) to be spaced
far enough away from the riser's edge as to allow feathers and vanes to easily pass by the inside edge without any
contact with the bow. A brilliant idea! Almost all new compound bows are now this style.
A basic molded riser (Figure B) does not have this feature. The actual center-shot of the bow is very close to (if not
right against) the edge of the riser. This type of riser typically uses a flipper/plunger style rest, where a cutaway
riser generally cannot.
So what does all this have to do with arrow length? Ah-ha! Remember our earlier discussion where we learned "If
you drew back a 29" arrow, and the insert of the arrow lined-up with the front edge of the bow's riser, the bow is set
for approximately 29" draw length"? Hold that thought. Because center-shot cutaway risers can shoot arrows that
are LESS than the bow's adjusted draw length (so they can rest inside the arrow shelf). Bows without a center-
shot cutaway riser generally cannot (arrows must "hang-over").
.
CLEARANCE FOR BROADHEADS:
Now, if you shoot a modern bow with a center-shot cutaway riser, the choice isn't so simple. Since a center-shot
cutaway riser allows clearance for common broadheads to be drawn back beyond the outer edge of the riser, you
can shoot a considerably shorter arrow. In fact, many modern compound shooters trim their arrows to the minimum
length - just beyond the arrow rest. Why would they do that? Simple....SPEED! The shorter an arrow is, the
lighter it will be and the faster it will fly. We'll discuss the issue of arrow weight vs. speed in much more detail in
Section #4. But ultimately, the position of your arrow rest determines the minimum arrow length for a modern
center-shot cutaway bow. An arrow that is trimmed 1/2-1" beyond the arrow rest will work quite well in a center-
shot cutaway riser bow.
ARROW REST POSITION FOR CUTAWAY BOWS:
Some arrow rests mount more rearward than others, permitting the use of shorter and shorter arrows. There's even
a device known as an overdraw, that's specifically designed to relocate and reposition the arrow rest rearward -
just so a shorter arrow can be used. However, with the increasing popularity of lightweight carbon arrow shafts,
overdraws aren't really necessary any more, and are rarely used on modern hunting rigs. But some type of modern
arrow rests still function much like an overdraw - locating the rest position closer to the shooter.
The diagram below illustrates how the position of the rest changes the necessary arrow length. With a standard
TM Hunter style rest, the proper arrow length is usually 1-2" less than the bow's draw length. With a Whisker
Biscuit rest, usually 2-3" less than the draw length. And with a Muzzy Zero Effect, as much as 3-4" less than the
bow's draw length. However, it should be noted that most arrow rests can be mounted and adjusted in different
positions. Consider this as an estimation only.
With all that said, the most reliable method is to actually draw back an arrow and measure. Once your draw length
is set perfectly and your arrow rest is mounted in it's permanent position, you can simply draw back an arrow and
have someone else use a magic marker to mark the shaft where it actually sits on the arrow rest at full draw.
Trimming the arrow shaft anywhere 1/2" (or more) forward of that position is acceptable. The most common
method is to trim the arrows so that 1" sticks out beyond the rest. We recommend you not trim arrows to the very
bare minimum, as over time your string may stretch a little, letting your draw length out a tad, and leaving you with
arrows that are too short. And once an arrow is cut too short, it's cut too short for life.
ARROW LENGTH AFFECTS ARROW SPINE:
Before you make up your mind about your arrow length, there's one more detail we'll need to consider. The length
of your arrow is a factor in determining the proper stiffness, or spine, for your perfect arrow. The longer your arrow
is, the more limber it will act when shot. The shorter your arrow is, the more stiff it will act when shot. We'll cover
this issue in more detail in the next section, but you should be aware that shooting an extra long arrow often results
in a double-whammy regarding arrow weight. If you shoot an excessively long arrow, not only will the excess shaft
weight result in a heavier and slower flying arrow, but the added length may necessitate changing to an even
heavier/stiffer arrow spine. For those of you looking to bulk-up your carbon arrows to gain a little KE (more on this
later too), a little more arrow length may be a good thing. But most shooters want to get as much snap as possible
out of their high performance compound bows, so keeping an eye on excess arrow weight is a big consideration.
Note : Yes! We realize static spine and dynamic spine aren't the same thing. We'll get to that too. :)
To Cut or Not to Cut: Trimming the Arrows
When you purchase your new set of arrows, you have two choices regarding arrow length. Most raw arrow shafts
are deliberately made too long (usually 32-24") so that they can be trimmed to length to suit your particular bow.
You may choose to receive your arrows UNCUT (full-length) OR you may receive your arrows already trimmed to
length and inserted. There is no added charge for trimming and inserting your arrows, but here are a few things to
consider before you decide.
Carbon arrows should only be cut with a high-speed abrasive-wheel saw. Attempting to trim your new carbon
arrows with your hacksaw or your plumber's tubing cutter will result in splintered fibers and a weakened arrow
shaft. Using a good quality arrow saw is best. However, with a little patience, you can get a respectable cut using
your Dremel Rotary Tool with an abrasive cutting wheel attachment. So if you're the "handy" type, you may wish to
order arrows full-length and trim your own. Metal inserts will still be included (but uninstalled) with full-length arrow
orders. Metal inserts are often installed with a "hot-melt" type glue to allow fine tuning of some style broadheads.
If you would rather avoid the handyman hassle and you're already sure of your arrow length, we would be happy to
professionally trim and insert your new arrows free of charge. In this case, once your arrows arrive, you'll just need
to screw in your tips and then you're all ready to shoot. However, before you select this option, you should double-
check your measurements for accuracy. It's always safer to measure twice and cut once, as once your arrows are
trimmed to the length you specify, they cannot be returned for an exchange or refund. However, in certain
circumstances, full-length arrows, still uncut and without inserts installed can be returned.
Arrow Straightness: by the Thousandths
Most carbon arrows are advertised to have a specific straightness tolerance (usually measured along a 28" section
of the shaft) between .001" and .006". The straighter the arrow, the more expensive they will typically be. Most
standard-grade carbon arrows have a straightness of around .006". These basic shafts are usually called
"Hunters", and for good reason. For the purposes of close-quarters treestand hunting, most standard-grade shafts
are more than adequate. A typical human hair is about .004"-.006" in diameter. So even a basic carbon shaft of .
006" straightness is quite good, and straighter than you could possibly perceive without specialized equipment. But
most manufacturers also offer a mid-grade shaft which will have an advertised straightness of around .003", and
finally a "Pro" shaft that will claim .001" or less.
Many hunters and recreational shooters report they can tell no difference in .006" arrows and .001" arrows, except
for the size of the dent each respectively puts in their wallets. Of course, we're not suggesting that arrow
straightness is an insignificant attribute, it's just that most archers don't have enough shooting skill to differentiate
between them. Pro-level shooters often report the opposite, and choose the straightest arrow they can find for
competition. Of course, most pro shooters don't have to pay for their own arrows. So choosing the best arrow in
the line-up isn't really such a hard choice to make for these shooters.
From a pure physics standpoint, arrow straightness certainly does matter. When fired from a sophisticated
shooting machine, the difference becomes more evident, as the straighter arrows fly and group measurably better,
particularly at longer distances and when shooting broadheads. So theoretically, shooting good straight arrows can
increase your “effective shooting” distance and provide better hits on the marginal shots. But be advised, spending
$100+ on a set of ultra-straight .001" arrows will not likely transform you into Randy Ulmer. If your accuracy isn't as
spectacular as you would like, it's most likely the result of tuning/clearance or shooting-form issues, rather than
arrow straightness. Nonetheless, arrow straightness is one variable you can tip in your favor for a few extra bucks.
If that extra advantage yields a few more points on the 3D range, or helps you to land the shot of a lifetime - then it's
money well spent. It certainly doesn't hurt to get the straightest arrow you can afford. So.....good, better, or best?
The choice is up to you.
Regarding straightness, carbon arrows offer a distinct benefit over aluminums. While a carbon arrow's advertised
specs may be no straighter than a typical aluminum shaft, carbon arrows resist distorting and "bending out of
shape" much better than aluminum arrows. Though an aluminum shaft may BEGIN with a similar ±.003"
straightness, it's straightness quickly deteriorates through normal use and handling. So after a few months of use,
your aluminum arrow set may contain a few arrows that are ±.003", a few at ±.012", and a few at ±.025". Carbon
arrows generally do not retain this kind of "memory" after being stressed. So your carbon arrow set stays much
more straight and uniform - even with heavy use. Some archers even joke that there are only two states of a
carbon arrow: straight or broken, but never bent. While that's not entirely accurate, it does help to illustrate the
point.
Arrow Weight: Grains not Grams
Not only will you need to determine the proper length of your arrows, but you'll also need to know something about
arrow weight. Depending on their length, type, tip weight, fletching options, etc., arrows can dramatically vary in
weight. How heavy should your arrows be? Well....let's start at the top.
First thing. The weight of an arrow is customarily measured in GRAINS. Grains (gr) and grams (g) are totally
different units of measure. The grain is a British system unit - based on the weight of a grain of barley. A gram is a
metric unit of weight. So don't confuse them. A gram is a lot heavier than a grain. A 350 grain (gr) arrow weighs
only 22.75 grams (g). But since archers measure in grains, let's just try to just forget about grams for now.
Given how tiny a grain is (only 1/7000th of a pound), your kitchen diet scale won't help at all. If you would like to
have the ability to accurately weigh your own arrows without the need for conversion tables and a calculator, you
can purchase an archer's scale that's specifically calibrated in grains. However, when you order custom arrows
from Hunter's Friend, your arrow set will arrive already weighed and certified by one of our professional arrow
builders.
Arrow Weight: Is Lighter Better?
This is a hotly debated topic that we'll cover in more detail in Chapter 5. But the fact is, lighter arrows fly faster with
less loss of trajectory. A faster arrow won't necessarily penetrate better, but it will make it to the target more
quickly. For some bowhunters and 3D shooters, this is a great benefit. A bow that shoots very fast is often
described as "shooting flat". The "flat" part is a reference to the natural rainbow-shaped parabolic flight-path that all
arrows invariably take. A faster arrow travels with less perceptible arc, so it is described as shooting "flat". And this
seems to be a characteristic that many shooters seek in a bowhunting or 3D rig.
In the current archery market, speed sells. Right or wrong, it's a fact. Like in many industries, archery
manufacturers are under constant pressure to make things go faster. As a result, each year brings a new bumper-
crop of even lighter arrow shafts, better string materials, more efficient bow designs, friction-reducing components,
etc. Again, there is some disagreement on this issue, and we'll hammer out the pro's and con's in Chapter 5. But
the main idea is, lighter arrows go faster - sometimes dramatically faster. Heavy arrows go slower. So if you want
your bow to shoot "flat", lightweight arrows are going to be a must.
Arrow Weight: How Light is TOO Light?
Shooting an arrow that is too light can be dangerous, both to you and your expensive compound bow. Shooting an
underweight arrow has a similar effect as dry-firing your bow. Without sufficient arrow weight, the string and limbs
of your compound bow move too quickly and violently. It's like putting your car in neutral and flooring the gas
pedal. The bow needs the resistance of the arrow to slow it down - so it doesn't "rev" out of control.
Of course, an underweight arrow will fly like a rocket - generating unbelievable speeds. But anyone who does this
is just asking for trouble. Modern compound bows aren't toys. They generate a tremendous amount of energy and
should be treated with the same respect you would give any dangerous weapon. The vast majority of serious
compound bow failures are not caused by manufacturer defects, but rather by dry-firing the bow or shooting
dramatically underweight arrows. For your personal safety, and the longevity of your bow, we most strongly
recommend you follow the IBO or AMO Standard regarding minimum arrow weight.
The International Bowhunting Organization (IBO) sets a 5 grains per pound standard that's pretty simple to follow.
Arrow weight should never be less than 5X the bow's draw weight. So a 60# bow should shoot no less than a 300
(5 x 60) grain arrow. Simple enough! Another authority in the archery industry, the Archery Trade Association
(formerly the AMO), also publishes an arrow weight recommendation chart called the AMO Minimum Arrow Weight
Chart. The AMO chart is a bit more complex and takes more variables into account (brace height, bow efficiency,
cam design, draw length, etc.), but it is less widely used. Some manufacturers ask you follow one standard, some
the other. And depending upon your particular bow setup, the IBO and AMO recommendations may or may not be
the same. Check the literature that came with your bow to find which standard you should follow.
However, since the IBO Standard applies at most 3D courses, many competitive shooters setup their arrows to
weigh exactly 5 grains per pound. This keeps them just within the rules while providing the fastest possible arrow
speeds. However, bowhunters usually choose arrow weights between 5 and 9 grains per pound.
IBO STANDARD: Minimum Allowable Arrow Weight - Includes Tip Weight
80# Bow 400 gr min. 64# Bow 320 gr min. 48# Bow 240 gr min.
78# Bow 390 gr min. 62# Bow 310 gr min. 46# Bow 230 gr min.
76# Bow 380 gr min 60# Bow 300 gr min. 44# Bow 220 gr min.
74# Bow 370 gr min. 58# Bow 290 gr min. 42# Bow 210 gr min.
72# Bow 360 gr min. 56# Bow 280 gr min. 40# Bow 200 gr min.
70# Bow 350 gr min. 54# Bow 270 gr min. 38# Bow 190 gr min.
68# Bow 340 gr min. 52# Bow 260 gr min. 36# Bow 180 gr min.
66# Bow 330 gr min. 50# Bow 250 gr min. 34# Bow 170 gr min.
Arrow Weight: Laws & Warranties
CHECK THE LAW
Years ago, when carbon arrows were first introduced in the archery market, their critics (mainly competing
manufacturers who didn't make carbon arrows at the time) launched anti-carbon arrow advertising campaigns to
dissuade archers from giving up their heavy aluminum arrows for lightweight carbon shafts. These ad campaigns
claimed carbon arrows were dangerous, they would splinter and break, they were inaccurate, wouldn't penetrate
well, they would ruin your meat, they could cut your hands during field dressing, etc. Of course, as we soon
learned, all that corporate blathering was a distortion of the truth - and today carbon arrows continue to command
an increasingly dominant share of the hunting arrow market. And in fact, the same manufacturers who once
attacked the carbon arrow concept NOW make their own carbon arrow shafts to sell.
Fortunately, the carbon arrow concept has prevailed, but there have been casualties in the Aluminum vs. Carbon
War. Several states still have hunting laws that reflect the early misconceptions about using lightweight carbon
arrows for big game hunting. For example: Washington State bowhunters must shoot arrows that weigh at least 6
grains per pound (rather than the 5 gr/p/p recommended by the IBO), Alabama bowhunters must shoot at least 100
grain tips in their arrows, and Connecticut bowhunters must use arrows that weigh at least 400 grains regardless of
their bow's draw weight. And while these antiquated restrictions may not exactly warrant an uprising, they are a
part of each state's effort to ensure ethical bowhunting practices. So we strongly suggest you check your state
regulations before ordering your hunting arrows, and respect your state's rules and regulations. And be advised
that your state's rules and regulations may change from year to year. As a sportsman, it's your responsibility to
know the law and be sure your equipment is in compliance from season to season.
Many shooters believe that proper arrow length should always be equal to or should exceed the bow's draw length.
So if we rely on this conventional wisdom, a 30" draw bow would always shoot a 30+" arrow. Right? Well......not
necessarily!!! Times have changed, and the traditional thinking may or may not apply to your particular bow rig. In
many instances, the proper arrow length for your bow may be considerably less than the measured draw length of
the bow.
RISER TYPE:
There are several factors to consider here. So we'll start with the big one - riser type (the riser is the "handle"
portion of the bow). Some years ago, as traditional magnesium molded risers gave way to the production of CNC
machined aluminum, we were blessed by the welcome innovation of the center-shot cutaway riser (Figure A). The
center-shot cutaway riser has a much wider arrow shelf, and the center section of the riser is shifted well to the
side. This allows the true center-shot of the bow (where your arrow rest should line up left and right) to be spaced
far enough away from the riser's edge as to allow feathers and vanes to easily pass by the inside edge without any
contact with the bow. A brilliant idea! Almost all new compound bows are now this style.
A basic molded riser (Figure B) does not have this feature. The actual center-shot of the bow is very close to (if not
right against) the edge of the riser. This type of riser typically uses a flipper/plunger style rest, where a cutaway
riser generally cannot.
So what does all this have to do with arrow length? Ah-ha! Remember our earlier discussion where we learned "If
you drew back a 29" arrow, and the insert of the arrow lined-up with the front edge of the bow's riser, the bow is set
for approximately 29" draw length"? Hold that thought. Because center-shot cutaway risers can shoot arrows that
are LESS than the bow's adjusted draw length (so they can rest inside the arrow shelf). Bows without a center-
shot cutaway riser generally cannot (arrows must "hang-over").
.
CLEARANCE FOR BROADHEADS:
- With a traditional molded riser bow, arrows must be AT LEAST as long as the
bow's draw length if you ever intend to use broadheads or other tips larger than
the diameter of the arrow. Since the arrow rides along close to the riser, there
isn't enough room to draw back a broadhead over the arrow shelf such that one
of the blades doesn't snag on the edge of the riser as you're coming to full
draw. So if you have an older bow without the benefit of a center-shot cutaway
riser, choosing your arrow length is easy. In this case, we recommend you
order arrows 1/2-1" longer than the bow's actual adjusted draw length. And
regardless of what kind of riser you have, if you intend to shoot specialty small
game hunting tips (Judo Points, Snaro's, Condor Tips, etc.) which are unusually
wide, you will definitely need arrows that are slightly longer than the bow's draw
length. Even a center-shot cutaway bow doesn't have sufficient clearance to
draw that type of tip beyond the outer edge of the riser.
Now, if you shoot a modern bow with a center-shot cutaway riser, the choice isn't so simple. Since a center-shot
cutaway riser allows clearance for common broadheads to be drawn back beyond the outer edge of the riser, you
can shoot a considerably shorter arrow. In fact, many modern compound shooters trim their arrows to the minimum
length - just beyond the arrow rest. Why would they do that? Simple....SPEED! The shorter an arrow is, the
lighter it will be and the faster it will fly. We'll discuss the issue of arrow weight vs. speed in much more detail in
Section #4. But ultimately, the position of your arrow rest determines the minimum arrow length for a modern
center-shot cutaway bow. An arrow that is trimmed 1/2-1" beyond the arrow rest will work quite well in a center-
shot cutaway riser bow.
ARROW REST POSITION FOR CUTAWAY BOWS:
Some arrow rests mount more rearward than others, permitting the use of shorter and shorter arrows. There's even
a device known as an overdraw, that's specifically designed to relocate and reposition the arrow rest rearward -
just so a shorter arrow can be used. However, with the increasing popularity of lightweight carbon arrow shafts,
overdraws aren't really necessary any more, and are rarely used on modern hunting rigs. But some type of modern
arrow rests still function much like an overdraw - locating the rest position closer to the shooter.
The diagram below illustrates how the position of the rest changes the necessary arrow length. With a standard
TM Hunter style rest, the proper arrow length is usually 1-2" less than the bow's draw length. With a Whisker
Biscuit rest, usually 2-3" less than the draw length. And with a Muzzy Zero Effect, as much as 3-4" less than the
bow's draw length. However, it should be noted that most arrow rests can be mounted and adjusted in different
positions. Consider this as an estimation only.
With all that said, the most reliable method is to actually draw back an arrow and measure. Once your draw length
is set perfectly and your arrow rest is mounted in it's permanent position, you can simply draw back an arrow and
have someone else use a magic marker to mark the shaft where it actually sits on the arrow rest at full draw.
Trimming the arrow shaft anywhere 1/2" (or more) forward of that position is acceptable. The most common
method is to trim the arrows so that 1" sticks out beyond the rest. We recommend you not trim arrows to the very
bare minimum, as over time your string may stretch a little, letting your draw length out a tad, and leaving you with
arrows that are too short. And once an arrow is cut too short, it's cut too short for life.
ARROW LENGTH AFFECTS ARROW SPINE:
Before you make up your mind about your arrow length, there's one more detail we'll need to consider. The length
of your arrow is a factor in determining the proper stiffness, or spine, for your perfect arrow. The longer your arrow
is, the more limber it will act when shot. The shorter your arrow is, the more stiff it will act when shot. We'll cover
this issue in more detail in the next section, but you should be aware that shooting an extra long arrow often results
in a double-whammy regarding arrow weight. If you shoot an excessively long arrow, not only will the excess shaft
weight result in a heavier and slower flying arrow, but the added length may necessitate changing to an even
heavier/stiffer arrow spine. For those of you looking to bulk-up your carbon arrows to gain a little KE (more on this
later too), a little more arrow length may be a good thing. But most shooters want to get as much snap as possible
out of their high performance compound bows, so keeping an eye on excess arrow weight is a big consideration.
Note : Yes! We realize static spine and dynamic spine aren't the same thing. We'll get to that too. :)
To Cut or Not to Cut: Trimming the Arrows
When you purchase your new set of arrows, you have two choices regarding arrow length. Most raw arrow shafts
are deliberately made too long (usually 32-24") so that they can be trimmed to length to suit your particular bow.
You may choose to receive your arrows UNCUT (full-length) OR you may receive your arrows already trimmed to
length and inserted. There is no added charge for trimming and inserting your arrows, but here are a few things to
consider before you decide.
Carbon arrows should only be cut with a high-speed abrasive-wheel saw. Attempting to trim your new carbon
arrows with your hacksaw or your plumber's tubing cutter will result in splintered fibers and a weakened arrow
shaft. Using a good quality arrow saw is best. However, with a little patience, you can get a respectable cut using
your Dremel Rotary Tool with an abrasive cutting wheel attachment. So if you're the "handy" type, you may wish to
order arrows full-length and trim your own. Metal inserts will still be included (but uninstalled) with full-length arrow
orders. Metal inserts are often installed with a "hot-melt" type glue to allow fine tuning of some style broadheads.
If you would rather avoid the handyman hassle and you're already sure of your arrow length, we would be happy to
professionally trim and insert your new arrows free of charge. In this case, once your arrows arrive, you'll just need
to screw in your tips and then you're all ready to shoot. However, before you select this option, you should double-
check your measurements for accuracy. It's always safer to measure twice and cut once, as once your arrows are
trimmed to the length you specify, they cannot be returned for an exchange or refund. However, in certain
circumstances, full-length arrows, still uncut and without inserts installed can be returned.
Arrow Straightness: by the Thousandths
Most carbon arrows are advertised to have a specific straightness tolerance (usually measured along a 28" section
of the shaft) between .001" and .006". The straighter the arrow, the more expensive they will typically be. Most
standard-grade carbon arrows have a straightness of around .006". These basic shafts are usually called
"Hunters", and for good reason. For the purposes of close-quarters treestand hunting, most standard-grade shafts
are more than adequate. A typical human hair is about .004"-.006" in diameter. So even a basic carbon shaft of .
006" straightness is quite good, and straighter than you could possibly perceive without specialized equipment. But
most manufacturers also offer a mid-grade shaft which will have an advertised straightness of around .003", and
finally a "Pro" shaft that will claim .001" or less.
Many hunters and recreational shooters report they can tell no difference in .006" arrows and .001" arrows, except
for the size of the dent each respectively puts in their wallets. Of course, we're not suggesting that arrow
straightness is an insignificant attribute, it's just that most archers don't have enough shooting skill to differentiate
between them. Pro-level shooters often report the opposite, and choose the straightest arrow they can find for
competition. Of course, most pro shooters don't have to pay for their own arrows. So choosing the best arrow in
the line-up isn't really such a hard choice to make for these shooters.
From a pure physics standpoint, arrow straightness certainly does matter. When fired from a sophisticated
shooting machine, the difference becomes more evident, as the straighter arrows fly and group measurably better,
particularly at longer distances and when shooting broadheads. So theoretically, shooting good straight arrows can
increase your “effective shooting” distance and provide better hits on the marginal shots. But be advised, spending
$100+ on a set of ultra-straight .001" arrows will not likely transform you into Randy Ulmer. If your accuracy isn't as
spectacular as you would like, it's most likely the result of tuning/clearance or shooting-form issues, rather than
arrow straightness. Nonetheless, arrow straightness is one variable you can tip in your favor for a few extra bucks.
If that extra advantage yields a few more points on the 3D range, or helps you to land the shot of a lifetime - then it's
money well spent. It certainly doesn't hurt to get the straightest arrow you can afford. So.....good, better, or best?
The choice is up to you.
Regarding straightness, carbon arrows offer a distinct benefit over aluminums. While a carbon arrow's advertised
specs may be no straighter than a typical aluminum shaft, carbon arrows resist distorting and "bending out of
shape" much better than aluminum arrows. Though an aluminum shaft may BEGIN with a similar ±.003"
straightness, it's straightness quickly deteriorates through normal use and handling. So after a few months of use,
your aluminum arrow set may contain a few arrows that are ±.003", a few at ±.012", and a few at ±.025". Carbon
arrows generally do not retain this kind of "memory" after being stressed. So your carbon arrow set stays much
more straight and uniform - even with heavy use. Some archers even joke that there are only two states of a
carbon arrow: straight or broken, but never bent. While that's not entirely accurate, it does help to illustrate the
point.
Arrow Weight: Grains not Grams
Not only will you need to determine the proper length of your arrows, but you'll also need to know something about
arrow weight. Depending on their length, type, tip weight, fletching options, etc., arrows can dramatically vary in
weight. How heavy should your arrows be? Well....let's start at the top.
First thing. The weight of an arrow is customarily measured in GRAINS. Grains (gr) and grams (g) are totally
different units of measure. The grain is a British system unit - based on the weight of a grain of barley. A gram is a
metric unit of weight. So don't confuse them. A gram is a lot heavier than a grain. A 350 grain (gr) arrow weighs
only 22.75 grams (g). But since archers measure in grains, let's just try to just forget about grams for now.
Given how tiny a grain is (only 1/7000th of a pound), your kitchen diet scale won't help at all. If you would like to
have the ability to accurately weigh your own arrows without the need for conversion tables and a calculator, you
can purchase an archer's scale that's specifically calibrated in grains. However, when you order custom arrows
from Hunter's Friend, your arrow set will arrive already weighed and certified by one of our professional arrow
builders.
Arrow Weight: Is Lighter Better?
This is a hotly debated topic that we'll cover in more detail in Chapter 5. But the fact is, lighter arrows fly faster with
less loss of trajectory. A faster arrow won't necessarily penetrate better, but it will make it to the target more
quickly. For some bowhunters and 3D shooters, this is a great benefit. A bow that shoots very fast is often
described as "shooting flat". The "flat" part is a reference to the natural rainbow-shaped parabolic flight-path that all
arrows invariably take. A faster arrow travels with less perceptible arc, so it is described as shooting "flat". And this
seems to be a characteristic that many shooters seek in a bowhunting or 3D rig.
In the current archery market, speed sells. Right or wrong, it's a fact. Like in many industries, archery
manufacturers are under constant pressure to make things go faster. As a result, each year brings a new bumper-
crop of even lighter arrow shafts, better string materials, more efficient bow designs, friction-reducing components,
etc. Again, there is some disagreement on this issue, and we'll hammer out the pro's and con's in Chapter 5. But
the main idea is, lighter arrows go faster - sometimes dramatically faster. Heavy arrows go slower. So if you want
your bow to shoot "flat", lightweight arrows are going to be a must.
Arrow Weight: How Light is TOO Light?
Shooting an arrow that is too light can be dangerous, both to you and your expensive compound bow. Shooting an
underweight arrow has a similar effect as dry-firing your bow. Without sufficient arrow weight, the string and limbs
of your compound bow move too quickly and violently. It's like putting your car in neutral and flooring the gas
pedal. The bow needs the resistance of the arrow to slow it down - so it doesn't "rev" out of control.
Of course, an underweight arrow will fly like a rocket - generating unbelievable speeds. But anyone who does this
is just asking for trouble. Modern compound bows aren't toys. They generate a tremendous amount of energy and
should be treated with the same respect you would give any dangerous weapon. The vast majority of serious
compound bow failures are not caused by manufacturer defects, but rather by dry-firing the bow or shooting
dramatically underweight arrows. For your personal safety, and the longevity of your bow, we most strongly
recommend you follow the IBO or AMO Standard regarding minimum arrow weight.
The International Bowhunting Organization (IBO) sets a 5 grains per pound standard that's pretty simple to follow.
Arrow weight should never be less than 5X the bow's draw weight. So a 60# bow should shoot no less than a 300
(5 x 60) grain arrow. Simple enough! Another authority in the archery industry, the Archery Trade Association
(formerly the AMO), also publishes an arrow weight recommendation chart called the AMO Minimum Arrow Weight
Chart. The AMO chart is a bit more complex and takes more variables into account (brace height, bow efficiency,
cam design, draw length, etc.), but it is less widely used. Some manufacturers ask you follow one standard, some
the other. And depending upon your particular bow setup, the IBO and AMO recommendations may or may not be
the same. Check the literature that came with your bow to find which standard you should follow.
However, since the IBO Standard applies at most 3D courses, many competitive shooters setup their arrows to
weigh exactly 5 grains per pound. This keeps them just within the rules while providing the fastest possible arrow
speeds. However, bowhunters usually choose arrow weights between 5 and 9 grains per pound.
IBO STANDARD: Minimum Allowable Arrow Weight - Includes Tip Weight
80# Bow 400 gr min. 64# Bow 320 gr min. 48# Bow 240 gr min.
78# Bow 390 gr min. 62# Bow 310 gr min. 46# Bow 230 gr min.
76# Bow 380 gr min 60# Bow 300 gr min. 44# Bow 220 gr min.
74# Bow 370 gr min. 58# Bow 290 gr min. 42# Bow 210 gr min.
72# Bow 360 gr min. 56# Bow 280 gr min. 40# Bow 200 gr min.
70# Bow 350 gr min. 54# Bow 270 gr min. 38# Bow 190 gr min.
68# Bow 340 gr min. 52# Bow 260 gr min. 36# Bow 180 gr min.
66# Bow 330 gr min. 50# Bow 250 gr min. 34# Bow 170 gr min.
Arrow Weight: Laws & Warranties
CHECK THE LAW
Years ago, when carbon arrows were first introduced in the archery market, their critics (mainly competing
manufacturers who didn't make carbon arrows at the time) launched anti-carbon arrow advertising campaigns to
dissuade archers from giving up their heavy aluminum arrows for lightweight carbon shafts. These ad campaigns
claimed carbon arrows were dangerous, they would splinter and break, they were inaccurate, wouldn't penetrate
well, they would ruin your meat, they could cut your hands during field dressing, etc. Of course, as we soon
learned, all that corporate blathering was a distortion of the truth - and today carbon arrows continue to command
an increasingly dominant share of the hunting arrow market. And in fact, the same manufacturers who once
attacked the carbon arrow concept NOW make their own carbon arrow shafts to sell.
Fortunately, the carbon arrow concept has prevailed, but there have been casualties in the Aluminum vs. Carbon
War. Several states still have hunting laws that reflect the early misconceptions about using lightweight carbon
arrows for big game hunting. For example: Washington State bowhunters must shoot arrows that weigh at least 6
grains per pound (rather than the 5 gr/p/p recommended by the IBO), Alabama bowhunters must shoot at least 100
grain tips in their arrows, and Connecticut bowhunters must use arrows that weigh at least 400 grains regardless of
their bow's draw weight. And while these antiquated restrictions may not exactly warrant an uprising, they are a
part of each state's effort to ensure ethical bowhunting practices. So we strongly suggest you check your state
regulations before ordering your hunting arrows, and respect your state's rules and regulations. And be advised
that your state's rules and regulations may change from year to year. As a sportsman, it's your responsibility to
know the law and be sure your equipment is in compliance from season to season.
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